How do I tell the difference between an authentic ROLEX and a fake?

Any pictures to support your theory?|||***With cheaper knock-offs, it is simple to tell as the second hand on a "real" rolex will sweep smoothly, rather than "ticking" from second to second. This is not the only way to tell, though, as many knock-off's have sweeping hands. Look at the backing; many fakes have clear backings to see the mechanisms working; real rolex watches never have clear backings. Also, true rolex watches have no markings on the case backing; most knock-offs have engravings of the rolex logo, or other hallmarks to make you think it is real. The rare exceptions to this are ladies' models (prior to the mid 1990's) which had "Original Rolex Design" or a similar variation thereof, engraved on the caseback in an arc fashion. Another exception is on the Sea-Dweller case backs which will have "ROLEX OYSTER ORIGINAL GAS ESCAPE VALVE" engraved around the outside of the caseback in an arc fashion. Genuine Rolex models are shipped new from the factory with a Hologram-encoded (3-dimensional) sticker on the caseback. This sticker features the trademarked Rolex "crown" positioned above the watch's case reference number. The hologram can be easily identified by viewing it from different angles, thus causing the background pattern to change. However, "most" counterfeit stickers are not holograms at all, but rather simply a repetitious "Rolex" pattern which does not change in appearance when viewed from different angles. It is worth mentioning that the genuine Rolex hologram stickers did not feature the "crown logo" as a part of the hologram until (around) 2002, when the sticker was redesigned. At that time, the Reference number was also changed from gold lettering to black, as it is currently. For authentic Rolexes, the crystal (on all current date models--excluding the Sea-Dweller) will have a glass bubble, or "cyclops" attached to the crystal, positioned over the date. Its purpose is to magnify the tiny aperture and does so at 2.5 times magnification. However, on MOST counterfiet models the date magnification is more like 1.5 times, at best. This may not sound like much of a difference, but when looking at the dates side-by-side it's obvious. The date window should practically "fill up" the cyclops--the fakes don't even come close. It is worth mentioning that some counterfeits are now featuring a new larger font date wheel to give the "illusion" of being magnified at a full 2.5 times. Rolex models featuring the Triplock crown (i.e. Submariner, Sea-Dweller and Daytona) utilize an extra seal within the threads of the winding crown's tube. This gasket resembles a black o-ring and can be visible when the winding crown is unscrewed fully. As shown in the example above, (most) counterfeit models will not feature this o-ring seal, but rather will have basic screw-down threads. It is worth mentioning that some new counterfeits will feature a "similar" looking rubber seal, but upon closer examination you will see that it is merely cosmetic, and is not functional. Genuine Rolex Yacht-Master models feature a "minute" hand which is considerably thicker than those on other Rolex sports models. However, to save money, counterfeiters will often use the same hands found on the Submariner. Genuine Rolex Daytona models feature mini-registers on the dial which perform Chronograph "stop watch" functions (i.e. elapsed hours and minutes). It is also worth mentioning that the large "sweep" hand on the dial is also part of the stop watch function, and is not the primary second hand-- the second hand for the watch is the small 20/40/60 register. However, counterfeit models will rarely perform these functions, but rather will be used for "day of week", "date", and "24-hour time". (Please Note: not all counterfeit models will be "printed" with these incorrect functions, but their operations will still be incorrect.) Furthermore, the size and position of these mini registers will often be incorrect on counterfeits. As shown in the example above, the counterfeit model features much smaller registers which are positioned too far inward on the dial, while the genuine Daytona features registers which are positioned much farther outward--almost touching the 3-6-9 hour markers. Brand new for 2002, Rolex has started micro-etching a tiny "coronet" (or crown) logo into the crystal, at the 6 o'clock position. This mark is quite small, so it is difficult to see with the naked eye. However, when viewed under a loupe, the faint outline can be distinguished. Probably the most accurate way to identify a genuine/counterfeit Rolex watch is by locating the Serial and Case Reference Numbers. These special identification numbers are engraved on the side of the case, located between the lugs. The engraving between the lugs of a genuine Rolex feature very fine lines, which actually catch the light similar to that of a diamond cut edge. However, (some) counterfeits will feature a sandy (acid) etched appearance, as seen in the example above. Furthermore, the spacing on these numbers is often too close together. It is worth mentioning that counterfeiters frequently use the SAME numbers on their watches. Thus, the example shown above: "R863698" is seen quite often, and is a pretty good sign of a fake.***





I read through this, and definitely give my stamp of approval. My Dad is a watchmaker by trade, specializing in Rolexes, and there is nothing in the massive explanation that I would disagree with. My Dad used to tell me things like that all the time when I was growing up, though not to as much as detail as the specific makes and models and their exceptions.





The green backing concerns me the most... If it has that, AND its second-hand is 'jittery', it is definitely a fake.|||you have to be an expert to tell..|||Very easy to tell...Rolexes minute hand does a continuous sweep. Look at another watch with a second hand, notice how it goes, tick, tick, tick, and there is a slight pause. The Rolex will not pause, ticktickticktick, continuously. Hope I explained correctly.|||IF YOU PURCHASE IT AT MAYORS OR GORDEN'S JEWELERS IT'S REAL! IF YOU GET ON THE STREET OR THE FLEA MARKET IT'S A FAKE DUH!|||the way the second hand turns... it has to glide not tick like regular watches...





also there should be a model # on the bottom... the crown should have five heads...





if your still not sure take it to a major jewelry store|||I hope you're not trying to buy those Rolexes stolen in Sacramento Last night........hear any sirens yet?|||Never buy a Rolex from anyone that isn't an authorized dealer. You won't get a warranty. For a watch that expensive, you want a warranty just in case.